West Turkey Itinerary

Terra Encounters Turkey Trip – 31 days

Göreme

Overall, this was one of our best-ever vacation trips.  This is because of the friendliness and hospitality of the people and not just the sights.  Our trip summary gives the best places to go, in our opinion, for a 31-day trip.  We have also attached stars to each destination to give a sense of what is most worthwhile seeing.  Our ratings take into account the many places we have seen around the world.

  

Because this trip report is very long, we have split our itinerary into two segments so that those of you who only have a couple of weeks can use one or the other.  Do not ask which is better: all the places we visited in Turkey were good choices.  But first, we will cover some of the logistics. 

Accommodation

Every traveller goes to hotels at the standard of living s/he desires and the budget they have.  We prefer places that provide good value.  We did not go to the cheapest places like when we backpacked around the world.  We chose to stay in family-run or small hotels (sometimes called pansiyon in Turkish).  In the off-season, we could go to places that in high season would be much more costly.  Istanbul and Bursa are more expensive: we averaged TRY 192/day in low season.  In the rest of the country, we averaged TRY 128/day for a double.

Travel Pace

Once you decide on your primary destination, you should assign at least three nights and preferably four to it.  In our case, we chose four nights in Istanbul and Göreme.  Then with the remaining days, you can determine the number of additional stopovers by using our rule of thumb of a minimum of two nights for each destination since at least half a day of that is required for travel.  Even though we had 31 days, there are always choices to be made.  Turkey is the size of Britain and France combined. 

Each place listed below is described in more detail along with photos in our posts on the Terra Encounters blog.  All underlined text below are hyperlinks that will take you directly to the most relevant post.  

For shorter trips, it is recommended that you focus on one geographic area reducing the number of places as well as travel time.  On the other hand, you may be able to add some of the other places we considered on our More Places page. 

Travel Mode

For this 3700 km trip, we rented a car.  Yes, that is very expensive, especially with the TRY 4.60/liter gas.  Some Aussie travellers had a neat idea.  They travelled between major destinations by public transport.  Then they rented a car to do side trips to national parks and more remote places.

West Turkey Itinerary

For a visual overview of the first part of our trip, see Itinerary Map 1.  

Istanbul **** 4 nights

Spent 8 nights in IST altogether: Yes, there is that much to see but on a shorter trip, you can spend less time here by reducing what you do. The following is what we saw in the first stay there. 
 

Sirkeci Mansion

AIRPORT: very inefficient, very long lineups to go through security and immigration.  Allow sufficient time.


HOTEL: Hotel Ilkay upgraded to Sirkeci Mansion **** great location, fabulous staff, like having personal travel advisors, unbelievable breakfasts.  Book directly to get free airport shuttle for a long (4 day) stay.

 

Live Like a Sultan

Topkapi Palace Paradise – definitely worth a day.  There is a separate ticket the Harem.  We would highly recommend it if you have the time.  Here you will see close up the beautiful Iznik tiles and carved wood decorations where the Sultan's family lived.  It is also useful to go there when everywhere else is so busy and then go to the jewel and weapon rooms (the most congested areas) at the end of the day.  

Hagia Sophia Dome-ination –

Dome of Dreams 

the most significant dome and building of the Byzantine era that influenced Ottoman and thus Islamic architecture

Istanbul Archaeology Museums – meet Alexander the Great, Iznik tiles, and other important artefacts that talk about the impact of Turkey on the world



St. Peter

Chora Church Mosaics – magnificent Byzantine gold mosaics

Süleymaniye Mosque Dome-ination – incredible domes of this Ottoman masterpiece

Spice Market – buy delicious Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi kahve (coffee), Turkish Delight, and hazelnuts

We did all the “museums” at one time because the weather was cold and dreary and we bought the Museum Card.  We do not recommend the card.  You are limited to five days, can only go to each museum once, and must visit all museums at one time.  Not many tourists want to spend all their time indoors.  Secondly, there is no discount if you only go to the top three places.  Any National Park card gives unlimited visits over a significant timeframe at a significant discount.
 

Bursa ** 2 nights

HOTEL: Hampton by Hilton very modern, business like, north of downtown, free parking, VG self-serve breakfast

Emerald Wonder

Green Mosque & Tomb *** – it is really Yeşil Türbe (Green Tomb)  opposite the mosque that blew us away and is the must-see with its unbelievable shades of green, so do not miss it!

Cumalikizik

Cumalikizik, Bursa – Ottoman Delight ** – the first is a small, old Ottoman village (do not expect incredible architecture like the wealthier Safranbolu but it was pleasant walk in the off-season when there were very few tourists) and the second is the old walled district of Bursa with nice views from the ramparts near the Türbe.

 

Acrophobics Avoid!

Bergama ** 1 night

HOTEL: Red Basilica very nice manager, E breakfast, good location

Pergamum Acropolis ** – loved the spectacular setting and the precipitous theatre

Selçuk *** 3 nights

HOTEL: Homeros Pension – great place, location, decor, and breakfast; can easily meet other travellers in dining/living room; we even ate supper here just for that reason

Famous building was a library

Ephesus *** – the top archaeological site of Turkey but overrun with tourists; spent all day here; actually is busiest from the opening until lunch then much less people the rest of the day

Şirince * – old Greek town famous for white-washed houses, wine, et al.; spent afternoon of our arrival day here
 

Ionic Columns are from Ionia

Priene – Connection to Architecture? *,
Miletus – What is a Vomitorium? *,
Didyma and the God Apollo – these ancient ruins are all close together but require a car or a tour; we spent all day and did not have enough time to visit Lake Bafu.

 



What's a Tetrapylon?

Afrodisias – Archaeology Aphrodisiac ***

If you have a car, you can visit nearby Afrodisias, on the way to Pamukkale.  However, it is very difficult to get to by dolmuş.  Rent a car or take a tour.  It is one of the nicest archaeological sites in Turkey with some actual buildings still standing or reconstructed!  Its’ fairly compact size gives a very good idea what an Ancient Roman city looked like.  Needs a half day.

Pamukkale – 2 nights

First day was Afrodisias and travel time; so we really had only one day here. 

HOTEL: Melrose House Hotel very warm owners, good conversations, E breakfasts and suppers

 

Where has all the water gone?

Pamukkale Terraces – notice no stars.  Only a few places in Turkey were disappointing.  The Pamukkale Terraces were very disheartening with hardly any water in the "thermal pools".  They are not worth the price of admission. 

Most of the water goes into pools that visitors can walk into.  I am sure this appeals to many tourists but it is not what a thermal area should look like.  If you want to see thermal areas go to Whakarewarewa (Rotorua), Orakei Korako (New Zealand) or Yellowstone National Park (USA). 

Theatre Stage

Hierapolis Ruins ** especially the theatre ***

However, Pamukkale admission also includes the Hierapolis Ruins, which were a pleasant surprise.  The theatre made the price of admission.

Dalyan ** 1 night

Lycian Tombs

Dalyan was one place that deserved more time – not for the laid-back town but for the places nearby.  This is a case where one day really is only a half day at your destination.  If it were beach weather, wouldn't you want to spend time swimming at one of the best beaches in Turkey? 

Iztuzu Beach ** –  Trip Advisor ranks it as one of the top 25 beaches in the world!

Kaunos Lycian Tombs *** –  spectacular, high up on a tall cliff.  But who are the Lycians?  Click the link to find the surprising answer. 
 

Kaş *** 2 nights

HOTEL: Hideaway Hotel was one of the best in TR; E breakfast with a terrace view, E coffee

On the way there: Ölüdeniz – overrated, narrow beach with the sea that is not as turquoise as in the over saturated photos in the tourist brochures

Soft Sand Patara

Patara *** – best beach we saw in Turkey, a world class beach with historically significant ruins – the site of the world's first parliament, whose constitution has influenced most democracies

Kaputaş Beach * – cute beach in a cliff-enclosed cove fringed with turquoise water; near to Kaş so probably dolmuş to get there

Off-season Kaş 

Old Kaş – small but enjoyable with overhanging balconies and plants

Kaş Market – every Friday, be sure to eat here the gözleme

View high up from park on road going down from main highway; Çukurbağ Peninsula; Old Roman Theatre

Kekova Kaarst

Day Trips: Kekova Sound *** spectacular karst scenery but need car so you can stop for views, else book a boat trip over sunken ruins

Could easily spend more time in Kaş, a great "vacation from the vacation" spot

Kiyi Hospitality

Çıralı 1 night

HOTEL: Kiyi Pension E owners, fantastic so meals, so welcoming

Çıralı itself could be skipped but we had a great stay on a farm B&B.  Beach is pebbly and overrated.

 

Turquoise Treasure

On the way to Çıralı:

 

Demre - Turquoise Coast Treasures for perhaps the most beautiful turquoise sea views **

 

 

Next Post: Spicy Istanbul
Last Post:  Kool Kadıköy

Aphrodisias

Aphrodisias Archaeology Aphrodisiac

Afrodisias Aphrodisiac

Aphrodisias should not be missed as it is probably the best archaeology site in Turkey – even better than Ephesus and without the crowds. You will be amazed by the complete monumental gate, stadium, Roman bath, agora and theatre. It is truly a must-see UNESCO World Heritage Site (WHS).  This city was dedicated to the Aphrodite, Goddess of Love, but today it is a tourist aphrodisiac. 

 

Day 11: We did not arrive at Aphrodisias until noon after driving about 2:15 hours (124 km) east from Selçuk. Aphrodisias is a compact area that can be done in a couple of hours. Best of all, a few minutes after getting off the free mini-bus from the parking lot to the entrance, the last tour group left the stadium. From this point on we were practically all alone. It was totally silent except for the birds. Very few people and very few groups come here. That alone is worth the price of admission (TRY 15), which is a fraction of the cost of Ephesus. The problem is that it is hard to get here without having a rental car or going on a tour. 

 

Tetrapylon

 

Tetrapylon Towers - Look Way Up

From the entrance square and museum, we took the road to the right (NW direction). We would recommend you do the same as you get to see the most important sight right away – a monumental gate and I mean very high. This cannot be still standing since 200 CE? No, it isn't. But it was reconstructed from the actual materials; i.e. it’s a real, complete monument. What a surprise that Turkey actually repaired and re-erected it in 1990. Wow, that's not what they do in Rome.  

 

We had never seen or heard of a tetrapylon when we lived in Italy. Tetrapylon means four (tetra) gates (pylon) in Greek, and is modelled after a triumphal arch. It is built when there is a major crossroad.  One set of Corinthian columns has unusual spiral fluting.

 

Lintel of Love

Use your zoom lens or binoculars to view the amazing bas relief sculptures. The columns are topped by a lintel with relief figures of Nike and Erotes amid acanthus leaves or in the process of hunting.  Erotes, the plural of Eros ("Love, Desire"), are a set of winged gods associated with love and sex in Greek mythology. They are part of the retinue of the Goddess of Love, Aphrodite.

Stadium

 

Stadium for One

We took the path continuing NW and then turned sharply to the right and came to an amazing sight – a complete, intact 270 m stadium. Most of the seats are still there, enough seats for around 30,000 spectators.  It is one of the largest and best preserved stadiums in the Ancient Mediterranean. Oh well, there is only one spectator today. 

 

Stadium for 30,000

Leaving the stadium on the same side (left) as we entered but taking the right path, we headed due south toward the Temple of Aphrodite. 

 

Why is Such a Beautiful City Here?

 

The question is why was this magnificent place built this far inland? Most major cities in ancient times were built along the coast or major rivers because boats were the main and fastest means of transportation in ancient times. 

 

Aphrodisias was constructed here because of the quarries of beautiful white and blue-gray marble. The marble sculptures made in Aphrodisias became famous and were exported as far as North Africa and Rome. It became a cultural and artistic hub as well as a centre for medicine and philosophy. The city was laid out following urban planning concepts begun by Hippodamus of Miletus.

 

Temple of Aphrodite

 



Temple of Aphrodite

The site of Aphrodisias has been sacred since as early as 5800 BC, when Neolithic farmers came here to worship the Mother Goddess of fertility and crops. Notice the preoccupation with reproduction. It followed that the Greeks named Aphrodisias after Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love, and origin of our word aphrodisiac. During Persian rule, this site was dedicated to their equivalent goddess, Ishtar. A part of the Ishtar processional tiles from Babylon can be seen in the Istanbul Archaeological Museums.
 



Love Flower

This similarity between goddesses is not accidental. What is interesting is that Hinduism, Ancient Greek, Ancient Roman and Viking religions all share a similar pantheon of gods and goddesses. That is because these deities are related to the Proto-Indo-European (PIE) people (formerly called Aryans) who migrated from the Caspian Sea area east to India, west to Turkey, and north to Slavic Europe and Scandinavia. BTW, this is now backed by DNA research with a particular genetic pattern (R1a1a).

 

It is also demonstrated by the fact that European and Indian languages belong to the Indo-European language group, which is related to and descended from Sanskrit. So the English word deity, Latin deus, Greek dios and god Zeus, and the Hindi word deva are derived from Sanskrit deva.  So it follows that the Greek Aphrodite was similar to Anatolian cult images. While the name was different, a deity often had the same set of powers associated with the Hindu deity.

 

Hadrianic Baths

Lone Statue, Dry Baths

 

On the right, just south of the Temple of Aphrodite were remnants of a Roman bath. Most of floor, now exposed to the outside, is still paved with black and white tiles. A lone statue gives an idea of what Afrodisias looked like with classical sculpture decorating all the public places. It must have been delightful. This statue decorated a pool.  

 

Agora with Water Park

 

Wow, the archaeological wonders continue.  Turning east after the baths, the path parallels alongside the large South Agora (Greek for market place and origin of our word agoraphobia, fear of open spaces), colonnaded pools included. 
 

Agora Aphrodisiac

The agora was enclosed by colonnaded stoa. This would give any of our present day shopping centres a run for their money. 

 

The path then climbs a steep hill, the acropolis. Along the way, there are more great views of the "water park". They continue to work on this area. In fact, the gate was left open. So I went inside for a closer view of some columns sitting beside the water-filled pool.

 

Theatre

 

Your Own Private Theatre

On the side of the acropolis hill is a complete theatre with a stage from 1st century BC. There is no skene building (Greek skene, Latin scaenae,  origin of English word scene) behind it. The scaenae was damaged in the 7th century earthquake. There would have been architectural ornament and statues of senators and benefactors. It was a great place to have lunch with a view (if you planned ahead). 

 

Fall of Afrodisias

 

Afrodisias Sebasteion

Aphrodisias never fully recovered from Arab raids and from the 7th century earthquake, and fell into disrepair. On the way out we saw the Sebasteion building covered in bas relief then went into the museum. This building was dedicated to the goddess and the imperial family of Julius Caesar.  That is because Gens Julia claimed divine descent from Venus (Aphrodite).
 



Sculpture Serpentinata

Unfortunately, the museum is totally under-lit making photography difficult. But there are some interesting sculptures. You can almost feel the delicate folds of the dress in this sculpture. The photo shows one of the most important art concepts, serpentinata or spiral "S"-shaped form.  It was the rediscovery of serpentinata and perspective in the 1400s that led to more realistic art and sculpture of the Renaissance. A supreme example of serpentinata is the Laocoön statue – original made in Pergamon and discovered in Rome in 1506 – was one of the biggest influences. 

 
Pamukkale



Sculpture Aphrodisiac

We were the last ones to leave the site along with an American who asked for a ride. He came much later than us and had to rush through the site. At the end of the day, it was empty so there were no cars or dolmuş (shared mini-buses) departing. He asked if we were going to Denizli so he could get the bus to Antalya, where he would later fly out to Istanbul. He got to Afrodisias late in the afternoon because it took him half a day to go from Denizli by dolmuş (shared mini-bus). Good for him that he came here; but not so good arranging his itinerary.

 

So driving him to the bus station was our good deed for the day as there were no local dolmuş to be seen. There were some nice mountains on our way to Denizli, if the weather had been clearer. Afrodisias to Pamukkale takes about two hours (98 km) going east to Tavas then north on the D330.  

We arrived at Pamukkale but the road was closed and there was a clear sign to veer left but after a while it seemed we were leaving the small town. We doubled back and eventually found our delightful hotel, Melrose House.