West Turkey Itinerary

Terra Encounters Turkey Trip – 31 days

Göreme

Overall, this was one of our best-ever vacation trips.  This is because of the friendliness and hospitality of the people and not just the sights.  Our trip summary gives the best places to go, in our opinion, for a 31-day trip.  We have also attached stars to each destination to give a sense of what is most worthwhile seeing.  Our ratings take into account the many places we have seen around the world.

  

Because this trip report is very long, we have split our itinerary into two segments so that those of you who only have a couple of weeks can use one or the other.  Do not ask which is better: all the places we visited in Turkey were good choices.  But first, we will cover some of the logistics. 

Accommodation

Every traveller goes to hotels at the standard of living s/he desires and the budget they have.  We prefer places that provide good value.  We did not go to the cheapest places like when we backpacked around the world.  We chose to stay in family-run or small hotels (sometimes called pansiyon in Turkish).  In the off-season, we could go to places that in high season would be much more costly.  Istanbul and Bursa are more expensive: we averaged TRY 192/day in low season.  In the rest of the country, we averaged TRY 128/day for a double.

Travel Pace

Once you decide on your primary destination, you should assign at least three nights and preferably four to it.  In our case, we chose four nights in Istanbul and Göreme.  Then with the remaining days, you can determine the number of additional stopovers by using our rule of thumb of a minimum of two nights for each destination since at least half a day of that is required for travel.  Even though we had 31 days, there are always choices to be made.  Turkey is the size of Britain and France combined. 

Each place listed below is described in more detail along with photos in our posts on the Terra Encounters blog.  All underlined text below are hyperlinks that will take you directly to the most relevant post.  

For shorter trips, it is recommended that you focus on one geographic area reducing the number of places as well as travel time.  On the other hand, you may be able to add some of the other places we considered on our More Places page. 

Travel Mode

For this 3700 km trip, we rented a car.  Yes, that is very expensive, especially with the TRY 4.60/liter gas.  Some Aussie travellers had a neat idea.  They travelled between major destinations by public transport.  Then they rented a car to do side trips to national parks and more remote places.

West Turkey Itinerary

For a visual overview of the first part of our trip, see Itinerary Map 1.  

Istanbul **** 4 nights

Spent 8 nights in IST altogether: Yes, there is that much to see but on a shorter trip, you can spend less time here by reducing what you do. The following is what we saw in the first stay there. 
 

Sirkeci Mansion

AIRPORT: very inefficient, very long lineups to go through security and immigration.  Allow sufficient time.


HOTEL: Hotel Ilkay upgraded to Sirkeci Mansion **** great location, fabulous staff, like having personal travel advisors, unbelievable breakfasts.  Book directly to get free airport shuttle for a long (4 day) stay.

 

Live Like a Sultan

Topkapi Palace Paradise – definitely worth a day.  There is a separate ticket the Harem.  We would highly recommend it if you have the time.  Here you will see close up the beautiful Iznik tiles and carved wood decorations where the Sultan's family lived.  It is also useful to go there when everywhere else is so busy and then go to the jewel and weapon rooms (the most congested areas) at the end of the day.  

Hagia Sophia Dome-ination –

Dome of Dreams 

the most significant dome and building of the Byzantine era that influenced Ottoman and thus Islamic architecture

Istanbul Archaeology Museums – meet Alexander the Great, Iznik tiles, and other important artefacts that talk about the impact of Turkey on the world



St. Peter

Chora Church Mosaics – magnificent Byzantine gold mosaics

Süleymaniye Mosque Dome-ination – incredible domes of this Ottoman masterpiece

Spice Market – buy delicious Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi kahve (coffee), Turkish Delight, and hazelnuts

We did all the “museums” at one time because the weather was cold and dreary and we bought the Museum Card.  We do not recommend the card.  You are limited to five days, can only go to each museum once, and must visit all museums at one time.  Not many tourists want to spend all their time indoors.  Secondly, there is no discount if you only go to the top three places.  Any National Park card gives unlimited visits over a significant timeframe at a significant discount.
 

Bursa ** 2 nights

HOTEL: Hampton by Hilton very modern, business like, north of downtown, free parking, VG self-serve breakfast

Emerald Wonder

Green Mosque & Tomb *** – it is really Yeşil Türbe (Green Tomb)  opposite the mosque that blew us away and is the must-see with its unbelievable shades of green, so do not miss it!

Cumalikizik

Cumalikizik, Bursa – Ottoman Delight ** – the first is a small, old Ottoman village (do not expect incredible architecture like the wealthier Safranbolu but it was pleasant walk in the off-season when there were very few tourists) and the second is the old walled district of Bursa with nice views from the ramparts near the Türbe.

 

Acrophobics Avoid!

Bergama ** 1 night

HOTEL: Red Basilica very nice manager, E breakfast, good location

Pergamum Acropolis ** – loved the spectacular setting and the precipitous theatre

Selçuk *** 3 nights

HOTEL: Homeros Pension – great place, location, decor, and breakfast; can easily meet other travellers in dining/living room; we even ate supper here just for that reason

Famous building was a library

Ephesus *** – the top archaeological site of Turkey but overrun with tourists; spent all day here; actually is busiest from the opening until lunch then much less people the rest of the day

Şirince * – old Greek town famous for white-washed houses, wine, et al.; spent afternoon of our arrival day here
 

Ionic Columns are from Ionia

Priene – Connection to Architecture? *,
Miletus – What is a Vomitorium? *,
Didyma and the God Apollo – these ancient ruins are all close together but require a car or a tour; we spent all day and did not have enough time to visit Lake Bafu.

 



What's a Tetrapylon?

Afrodisias – Archaeology Aphrodisiac ***

If you have a car, you can visit nearby Afrodisias, on the way to Pamukkale.  However, it is very difficult to get to by dolmuş.  Rent a car or take a tour.  It is one of the nicest archaeological sites in Turkey with some actual buildings still standing or reconstructed!  Its’ fairly compact size gives a very good idea what an Ancient Roman city looked like.  Needs a half day.

Pamukkale – 2 nights

First day was Afrodisias and travel time; so we really had only one day here. 

HOTEL: Melrose House Hotel very warm owners, good conversations, E breakfasts and suppers

 

Where has all the water gone?

Pamukkale Terraces – notice no stars.  Only a few places in Turkey were disappointing.  The Pamukkale Terraces were very disheartening with hardly any water in the "thermal pools".  They are not worth the price of admission. 

Most of the water goes into pools that visitors can walk into.  I am sure this appeals to many tourists but it is not what a thermal area should look like.  If you want to see thermal areas go to Whakarewarewa (Rotorua), Orakei Korako (New Zealand) or Yellowstone National Park (USA). 

Theatre Stage

Hierapolis Ruins ** especially the theatre ***

However, Pamukkale admission also includes the Hierapolis Ruins, which were a pleasant surprise.  The theatre made the price of admission.

Dalyan ** 1 night

Lycian Tombs

Dalyan was one place that deserved more time – not for the laid-back town but for the places nearby.  This is a case where one day really is only a half day at your destination.  If it were beach weather, wouldn't you want to spend time swimming at one of the best beaches in Turkey? 

Iztuzu Beach ** –  Trip Advisor ranks it as one of the top 25 beaches in the world!

Kaunos Lycian Tombs *** –  spectacular, high up on a tall cliff.  But who are the Lycians?  Click the link to find the surprising answer. 
 

Kaş *** 2 nights

HOTEL: Hideaway Hotel was one of the best in TR; E breakfast with a terrace view, E coffee

On the way there: Ölüdeniz – overrated, narrow beach with the sea that is not as turquoise as in the over saturated photos in the tourist brochures

Soft Sand Patara

Patara *** – best beach we saw in Turkey, a world class beach with historically significant ruins – the site of the world's first parliament, whose constitution has influenced most democracies

Kaputaş Beach * – cute beach in a cliff-enclosed cove fringed with turquoise water; near to Kaş so probably dolmuş to get there

Off-season Kaş 

Old Kaş – small but enjoyable with overhanging balconies and plants

Kaş Market – every Friday, be sure to eat here the gözleme

View high up from park on road going down from main highway; Çukurbağ Peninsula; Old Roman Theatre

Kekova Kaarst

Day Trips: Kekova Sound *** spectacular karst scenery but need car so you can stop for views, else book a boat trip over sunken ruins

Could easily spend more time in Kaş, a great "vacation from the vacation" spot

Kiyi Hospitality

Çıralı 1 night

HOTEL: Kiyi Pension E owners, fantastic so meals, so welcoming

Çıralı itself could be skipped but we had a great stay on a farm B&B.  Beach is pebbly and overrated.

 

Turquoise Treasure

On the way to Çıralı:

 

Demre - Turquoise Coast Treasures for perhaps the most beautiful turquoise sea views **

 

 

Next Post: Spicy Istanbul
Last Post:  Kool Kadıköy

Cumalikizik & Bursa - Ottoman Delight

Cumalikizik, Bursa – Ottoman Delight

Our main reason for going to Bursa was to see a 700 year old Ottoman village, Cumalikizik. It is now a World Heritage Site (WHS).   But so is Ottoman Bursa (Tophane) with its ancient walls.  With a population of just under two million, Bursa is the fourth largest city in Turkey after Istanbul, Ankara, and Izmir.

 

Note that when you click on a photo (only in a post) it starts a slide show of those photos.  The main advantage is that the photos are shown much larger.         

  

Cumalıkızık: Blue House

Cumalikizik Ottoman Village

Kizik means a set of nearby hamlets or small villages but only Cumalıkızık (pronounced ju-ma-li kee-zik) is as well-preserved with 270 half-timbered houses.  Kizik is also the name of one of the 24 clans of Turks from Central Asia. 

  

Ottoman houses are generally two or three-story timber-framed buildings with wood-framed windows projected over the street.  The buildings are entered through a ground floor courtyard that is either soil or large flat stones.  About 180 buildings are still being used by residents.

 



Cumalıkızık Ladies

As it is low season there were very few tourists in Cumalikizik.  There were no tour buses.  That was one reason it was enjoyable.  What made it special was talking to two local women.  It is amazing what you can communicate with just a few words and Google Translate.  One had studied a bit of English but spoke very few words.  She is 45 years old and has a 26-year old son and a 23-year old daughter.

 

I went all the way to the top as well as every side street.  They were all cobblestone and a man was keeping them clean.  In olden times the refuse water would have run down the middle of the street.



Cumalıkızık Lady
& Moroccan Man

On the way down we met two young Moroccans, a 21 year old man and a 20 year old women.  We discussed what life was like in Morocco compared to Turkey and how things were changing among young people in both countries.  The youth have pretty much adopted a modern culture; whereas there are many people still dressing in traditional clothes such as the trousers spread by the horse-riding Turkic people to the west. 

 

The man has been studying at Bursa University for 3 years but the first year was learning Turkish.  He seemed fluent.  So he acted as interpreter when we met the two women again. We had a great time as they could now communicate with us.
 



Cumalıkızık family
going home

Why is Cumalıkızık a WHS?  It is not because they have superb architecture.  If that is what you expect you are going to be disappointed.   To see a more prosperous version of an Ottoman village go to Safranbolu, which is described later in the trip.  Since Cumalıkızık is a rural village you cannot expect exceptional architecture.

Was it a must-see?   It brought back memories of the poor villages we saw hiking in the Himalayas with the aromas of burning firewood and little tea houses along the way.  What is unique is that the whole village was preserved from 200 years ago.  There are few ugly modern buildings to spoil the atmosphere.   Plus it is surrounded by all that green space including Mount Uludağ.  There were also many birds at Cumalikizik even though it was not yet spring.

Tophane, Bursa

Tophane's Ottoman Walls

In the afternoon we went to the district of Tophane (old Bursa) on top of a low hill. It has better kept Ottoman houses than Cumalıkızık plus the old city walls. It is the reason that Bursa is also a WHS.  Again we thought we were lost but ended on 2 Kavakli Caddesi. There were Ottoman houses plus the stone façade Haraççıoğlu Madrasa with a popular tea house.

The hotel staff told us to go to Üftade Türbesi ve Cami.  It was located just a bit south on a side street to the east before the city gate.  It was not the tombs and mosque that were interesting.  It was the little park behind them where there was a viewpoint.  Below us were remnants of the old city walls and people scurrying around the streets.  No one told us Bursa is built up a mountain on one side. Also walk through the gate to Yokush Caddesi to see the walls from the outside.  After that we went to the clock tower in the park off Hasta Yurdu Caddesi. It was not remarkable but it had 200° view of the modern part of the city.
     

Kapali Çarşi Silk

From there we went to the Covered Bazaar (Kapali Çarşi) off Ataturk Caddesi. There were lots of expensive fashion and jewelry shops.  It is still a centre for the any silk trade.  The capture of Bursa marked a turning point for the Ottoman Empire.  In 1335 Bursa became the first Ottoman capital.  That is why Bursa was the major terminus of Silk Road. 

Finally we went for supper to Çiçek Izgara (meaning flower grill), which is a block away from the bazaar near a park and flower (çiçek) shop area. The prices are in the TRY 12 to 14 range, half of what we paid in Istanbul. The meal was very good. 

 



Kapali Çarşi Gold

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Green Mosque, Bursa (Day 5)

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Pergamon Acropolis (Day 7)