West Turkey Itinerary

Terra Encounters Turkey Trip – 31 days

Göreme

Overall, this was one of our best-ever vacation trips.  This is because of the friendliness and hospitality of the people and not just the sights.  Our trip summary gives the best places to go, in our opinion, for a 31-day trip.  We have also attached stars to each destination to give a sense of what is most worthwhile seeing.  Our ratings take into account the many places we have seen around the world.

  

Because this trip report is very long, we have split our itinerary into two segments so that those of you who only have a couple of weeks can use one or the other.  Do not ask which is better: all the places we visited in Turkey were good choices.  But first, we will cover some of the logistics. 

Accommodation

Every traveller goes to hotels at the standard of living s/he desires and the budget they have.  We prefer places that provide good value.  We did not go to the cheapest places like when we backpacked around the world.  We chose to stay in family-run or small hotels (sometimes called pansiyon in Turkish).  In the off-season, we could go to places that in high season would be much more costly.  Istanbul and Bursa are more expensive: we averaged TRY 192/day in low season.  In the rest of the country, we averaged TRY 128/day for a double.

Travel Pace

Once you decide on your primary destination, you should assign at least three nights and preferably four to it.  In our case, we chose four nights in Istanbul and Göreme.  Then with the remaining days, you can determine the number of additional stopovers by using our rule of thumb of a minimum of two nights for each destination since at least half a day of that is required for travel.  Even though we had 31 days, there are always choices to be made.  Turkey is the size of Britain and France combined. 

Each place listed below is described in more detail along with photos in our posts on the Terra Encounters blog.  All underlined text below are hyperlinks that will take you directly to the most relevant post.  

For shorter trips, it is recommended that you focus on one geographic area reducing the number of places as well as travel time.  On the other hand, you may be able to add some of the other places we considered on our More Places page. 

Travel Mode

For this 3700 km trip, we rented a car.  Yes, that is very expensive, especially with the TRY 4.60/liter gas.  Some Aussie travellers had a neat idea.  They travelled between major destinations by public transport.  Then they rented a car to do side trips to national parks and more remote places.

West Turkey Itinerary

For a visual overview of the first part of our trip, see Itinerary Map 1.  

Istanbul **** 4 nights

Spent 8 nights in IST altogether: Yes, there is that much to see but on a shorter trip, you can spend less time here by reducing what you do. The following is what we saw in the first stay there. 
 

Sirkeci Mansion

AIRPORT: very inefficient, very long lineups to go through security and immigration.  Allow sufficient time.


HOTEL: Hotel Ilkay upgraded to Sirkeci Mansion **** great location, fabulous staff, like having personal travel advisors, unbelievable breakfasts.  Book directly to get free airport shuttle for a long (4 day) stay.

 

Live Like a Sultan

Topkapi Palace Paradise – definitely worth a day.  There is a separate ticket the Harem.  We would highly recommend it if you have the time.  Here you will see close up the beautiful Iznik tiles and carved wood decorations where the Sultan's family lived.  It is also useful to go there when everywhere else is so busy and then go to the jewel and weapon rooms (the most congested areas) at the end of the day.  

Hagia Sophia Dome-ination –

Dome of Dreams 

the most significant dome and building of the Byzantine era that influenced Ottoman and thus Islamic architecture

Istanbul Archaeology Museums – meet Alexander the Great, Iznik tiles, and other important artefacts that talk about the impact of Turkey on the world



St. Peter

Chora Church Mosaics – magnificent Byzantine gold mosaics

Süleymaniye Mosque Dome-ination – incredible domes of this Ottoman masterpiece

Spice Market – buy delicious Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi kahve (coffee), Turkish Delight, and hazelnuts

We did all the “museums” at one time because the weather was cold and dreary and we bought the Museum Card.  We do not recommend the card.  You are limited to five days, can only go to each museum once, and must visit all museums at one time.  Not many tourists want to spend all their time indoors.  Secondly, there is no discount if you only go to the top three places.  Any National Park card gives unlimited visits over a significant timeframe at a significant discount.
 

Bursa ** 2 nights

HOTEL: Hampton by Hilton very modern, business like, north of downtown, free parking, VG self-serve breakfast

Emerald Wonder

Green Mosque & Tomb *** – it is really Yeşil Türbe (Green Tomb)  opposite the mosque that blew us away and is the must-see with its unbelievable shades of green, so do not miss it!

Cumalikizik

Cumalikizik, Bursa – Ottoman Delight ** – the first is a small, old Ottoman village (do not expect incredible architecture like the wealthier Safranbolu but it was pleasant walk in the off-season when there were very few tourists) and the second is the old walled district of Bursa with nice views from the ramparts near the Türbe.

 

Acrophobics Avoid!

Bergama ** 1 night

HOTEL: Red Basilica very nice manager, E breakfast, good location

Pergamum Acropolis ** – loved the spectacular setting and the precipitous theatre

Selçuk *** 3 nights

HOTEL: Homeros Pension – great place, location, decor, and breakfast; can easily meet other travellers in dining/living room; we even ate supper here just for that reason

Famous building was a library

Ephesus *** – the top archaeological site of Turkey but overrun with tourists; spent all day here; actually is busiest from the opening until lunch then much less people the rest of the day

Şirince * – old Greek town famous for white-washed houses, wine, et al.; spent afternoon of our arrival day here
 

Ionic Columns are from Ionia

Priene – Connection to Architecture? *,
Miletus – What is a Vomitorium? *,
Didyma and the God Apollo – these ancient ruins are all close together but require a car or a tour; we spent all day and did not have enough time to visit Lake Bafu.

 



What's a Tetrapylon?

Afrodisias – Archaeology Aphrodisiac ***

If you have a car, you can visit nearby Afrodisias, on the way to Pamukkale.  However, it is very difficult to get to by dolmuş.  Rent a car or take a tour.  It is one of the nicest archaeological sites in Turkey with some actual buildings still standing or reconstructed!  Its’ fairly compact size gives a very good idea what an Ancient Roman city looked like.  Needs a half day.

Pamukkale – 2 nights

First day was Afrodisias and travel time; so we really had only one day here. 

HOTEL: Melrose House Hotel very warm owners, good conversations, E breakfasts and suppers

 

Where has all the water gone?

Pamukkale Terraces – notice no stars.  Only a few places in Turkey were disappointing.  The Pamukkale Terraces were very disheartening with hardly any water in the "thermal pools".  They are not worth the price of admission. 

Most of the water goes into pools that visitors can walk into.  I am sure this appeals to many tourists but it is not what a thermal area should look like.  If you want to see thermal areas go to Whakarewarewa (Rotorua), Orakei Korako (New Zealand) or Yellowstone National Park (USA). 

Theatre Stage

Hierapolis Ruins ** especially the theatre ***

However, Pamukkale admission also includes the Hierapolis Ruins, which were a pleasant surprise.  The theatre made the price of admission.

Dalyan ** 1 night

Lycian Tombs

Dalyan was one place that deserved more time – not for the laid-back town but for the places nearby.  This is a case where one day really is only a half day at your destination.  If it were beach weather, wouldn't you want to spend time swimming at one of the best beaches in Turkey? 

Iztuzu Beach ** –  Trip Advisor ranks it as one of the top 25 beaches in the world!

Kaunos Lycian Tombs *** –  spectacular, high up on a tall cliff.  But who are the Lycians?  Click the link to find the surprising answer. 
 

Kaş *** 2 nights

HOTEL: Hideaway Hotel was one of the best in TR; E breakfast with a terrace view, E coffee

On the way there: Ölüdeniz – overrated, narrow beach with the sea that is not as turquoise as in the over saturated photos in the tourist brochures

Soft Sand Patara

Patara *** – best beach we saw in Turkey, a world class beach with historically significant ruins – the site of the world's first parliament, whose constitution has influenced most democracies

Kaputaş Beach * – cute beach in a cliff-enclosed cove fringed with turquoise water; near to Kaş so probably dolmuş to get there

Off-season Kaş 

Old Kaş – small but enjoyable with overhanging balconies and plants

Kaş Market – every Friday, be sure to eat here the gözleme

View high up from park on road going down from main highway; Çukurbağ Peninsula; Old Roman Theatre

Kekova Kaarst

Day Trips: Kekova Sound *** spectacular karst scenery but need car so you can stop for views, else book a boat trip over sunken ruins

Could easily spend more time in Kaş, a great "vacation from the vacation" spot

Kiyi Hospitality

Çıralı 1 night

HOTEL: Kiyi Pension E owners, fantastic so meals, so welcoming

Çıralı itself could be skipped but we had a great stay on a farm B&B.  Beach is pebbly and overrated.

 

Turquoise Treasure

On the way to Çıralı:

 

Demre - Turquoise Coast Treasures for perhaps the most beautiful turquoise sea views **

 

 

Next Post: Spicy Istanbul
Last Post:  Kool Kadıköy

All Roads Lead to Ephesus

Ephesus is the holy grail of tourists in Turkey, the must-see sight.  It has a rare full façade of a building rather than a forest of column fragments.  But do travellers really know why they should go there?  Should all travellers’ roads lead to Ephesus?

 

Ephesus - Why is it Important?

Library of Celsus and Double Arch

Yes, your road should go to Ephesus, preferably in off-season.  Started as an Ionian (Greek) colony in the 10th century BC, it was conquered by the Persians (547 BC).  Ephesus was situated at the beginning of the Persian Royal Road, which led to Persia and continued east – it later came to be known as the Silk Road!  So all roads did lead to Ephesus!  

When Augustus became emperor in 27 BC, he made Ephesus the capital of the province of Asia instead of Pergamum.  As the third largest city of the Roman Empire, it was famous for the Temple of Artemis (Diana), the largest temple ever built and one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.  Like most archaeological sites it has only a jumble of columns left.  

However, Ephesus has enough remains to give you a sense of the grandeur of the city.  What you may not know is that several of the artefacts have been reconstructed so that you can see facades, arches and mosaics. 

Day 9: You can “do” Ephesus in a half day or you can experience it by spending all day.  But contrary to what we were told, all the tour groups came first thing in the morning.  It actually was better at lunch time when everyone goes out to eat.  The midday and afternoon would be too hot during peak season but is not a problem in the offseason. 

Library of Celsus



Greek inspired niches and statues

Fortunately we went in the lower entrance of Ephesus first thing in the morning and made it to Celsus with only a handful of people there.  I took photos right away. 

The interior of the Library of Celsus (built c. 120 CE) and all its 12,000 books (i.e. scrolls as they did not have paper yet) were destroyed by fire in the devastating earthquake that struck the city in 262. 

The façade was carefully reconstructed during the 1960s and 1970s using the original pieces.  On the right, the double marble gate (3 BC) into the agora (marketplace) is also the result of restoration. 

The inset frames and niches for statues in the façade shows the influence of ancient Greek architecture, in particular the skênê (the origin of the English word “scene”) of ancient Greek theatres.  This was the building behind the stage used for scene and costume changing.  The skênê building is missing at Ephesus so visit the Hierapolis photos for really great example. 

Curetes Way

  



Curetes Way View

Then we went uphill to the upper agora and upper entrance of Ephesus. After the small but photogenic Odeon theatre we walked down the Curetes Way with good views of the processional way with Celsus in the background. The colonnaded sides would have been packed with small shops (some things have not changed).



Curetes Way: scratches in the marble

Note the scratches in the otherwise slick marble-paved road. This was to provide better traction. The paving stones that are not marble are part of the restoration. There are some nice bas reliefs along the way. 


Note: to get a better view of the scratches, click on this or any other image to see a slide show of the photos in a larger size. 



 




Monument of Memmius

Monument of Memmius

 

Curetes leads to what must have been an impressive monument, the Monument of Memmius. The Ephesians supported a five-year revolt by the Greek world (i.e. Greece and Turkey) against over-bearing Rome in which everyone who spoke Latin was massacred – as many as 80,000 in one night.

The Monument of Memmius was erected by Dictator (another word from Latin) Sulla (86 BC) to memorialize this event and to emphasize Roman authority in Ephesus.  

 

Nike

 

Nike bas relief

There are only a few sculptures left on the Ephesus site. On the ground next to Memmius, the Nike bas relief is one of the more evocative ones.   Nike is the Greek goddess of strength, speed and victory. Nike is the origin of the names Nicholas, Nicole, Nils as well as the Nike running shoes. 

 
 

Ephesus Terrace Homes

Terrace Home mosaic and frescoed walls

The Terrace Homes were houses occupied by wealthy citizens or priests of noble lineage. They are also another example of the government charging extra for a site within a national park or monument.  Is it worth going? 

The floors display beautiful mosaics and the partial walls are adorned by frescoes.  On huge tables are hundreds of thousands of pieces of mosaics that are being re-constructed like a jigsaw puzzle.  

 

The mosaics are probably in better condition than at Pompeii but somehow I felt a letdown at the Terrace Homes.   Part of the problem is that the signs give only very dry facts and mainly extol the donors for the restoration.  They do not explain what you are seeing or give you an interesting story. Interpretive pamphlets and/or signs are essential for educating the public on life in ancient times. 

Latrines: view of Celsus not included

Latrines

The Temple of Hadrian is closed for reconstruction so continue into the Latrines just before Celsus.  The city had one of the most advanced, multiple aqueduct systems in the ancient world.  Use of the latrine was restricted to men, who paid a fee on entrance. Public latrines were built in order to obtain the uric acid used in tanning sheep and goat skins in the tanneries.



 

Ephesus Theatre

Can you imagine 25,000 people cheering in this Theatre?

The Marble Way continues the short distance from the Library of Celsus to the Theatre. Seating 25,000 people, it was the largest outdoor theatre in the ancient world.   By the way, the Roman Colosseum was a closed (and covered) amphitheatre and sat c. 75,000 people. The Ephesus theatre was used for drama; but later, gladiatorial combats were also held here.

 

Decline of Ephesus

But why did the 3rd largest city of the Roman Empire fade away?  Part of the answer lies at the end of the 11 meter (36 feet) wide avenue from the theatre to the port.  But where is the water?  

Homeros Pension dining room

The Küçük Menderes (Little Meander) River delta silted up the harbour.  The sea is now 8 km away. This led to marshes, mosquitos and thus malaria.  Now throw in some earthquakes and the sack by the Arabs in 700 and 716, and Ephesus declined into obscurity. 

Homeros Pension

Each night we met many fellow travellers at the home-like Homeros Pension.  We all ate together in the quaint dining room and stayed after supper talking.  Lars from Denmark has made a career as a yachtsman, and has sailed and travelled around the world.  He has been working in Bodrum but calls spectacular Mallorca his home.  He showed us his superb people pictures that he took while living in Turkey.