Antalya Kaleiçi

Kaleiçi – Castle of Antalya

Lost in Kaleiçi

This post is about two of the reasons for visiting Antalya: the Old City of Kaleiçi, with its gorgeous Ottoman houses, and food.  We had just finished our morning at the Antalya Archaeological Museum described in our last post and we're finally driving to our hotel.

 

Kaleiçi means “within the castle” but today this was more like the road to hell.  I did not have a paper map because I was relying on the old technique of “offline” Google map of Kaleiçi and, of all days, it disappeared from my tablet.  Antalya has the worst signs and there was no tourist office.  Doesn’t the city realize that there are tourists who are driving in their city?  

 

Kaleiçi Caddesi

We got lost several times and there are a lot of one way roads surrounding the old Ottoman city of Kaleiçi that necessitated going a long way around every time we came to a dead end.  It was exceedingly hard to find the one entrance you needed to take to drive the one way road into the mainly pedestrian only old city of Kaleiçi.  The narrow road (Kocatepe Sokak) is to the right just after Hadrian's Gate heading south on the main shopping street, Ataturk Caddesi, which is a one way road.  It looked like no entry was allowed.  Once on that road it seemed like it was taking forever and I still didn't know where the hotel was in Kaleiçi – no signs for hotels are allowed.  Eventually I parked the car and walked until I found the pension.  Then I had to re-find the car – and my wife too! Fortunately the hotel provided a great map.

Our Room in the White Garden

It had taken two hours trying to find our hotel, the White Garden Pansion, a gorgeous 125 year old Ottoman house. The photo shows our room, which has the oriel window that juts out over the street.  

In terms of architecture this was one of the special places we stayed at in Turkey. It was a pleasure to sit in the dining room each morning and have the typical Turkish breakfast surrounded by beautiful wood ceilings and green outdoor garden outside the glass wall.  

Outstanding Ottoman Houses

We still hadn't eaten so we walked through Kaleiçi along Hespaçi Sokak bypassing the more expensive tourist restaurants toward the place we were going to try out.  There were some touts – though not as bad as Istanbul asking you to buy at their shop.  We just ignored them.  There were many examples of stone and timber-framed Ottoman architecture.  This was definitely a larger and more affluent Ottoman area than two places described in our Cumalikizik & Bursa – Ottoman Delight post. 

Hadrian's Gate

Finally we reached Hadrian's Gate, which was erected to commemorate his visit in 130 CE, but was not built by Emperor Hadrian – who did complete the Temple of Trajan in Precipitous Pergamon.  Üçkapılar (its Turkish name) means three arches. 

This typical Roman triumphal gate is built entirely of white marble, which contrasts with the brown adjoining towers.  It is amazing that cart wheels could have carved the deep grooves in the stone pavement beneath the central arch. 

 

Tea anyone?

Once we exited the old city through Hadrian's Gate onto Ataturk Blvd, it was another world of Antalyans shopping and talking.

 

There were lots of young people in very modern clothes.  A çaycı (Turkish tea waiter) circulates the small wall-side park selling tea.  The word çay (pronounced chai) comes from Hindi chai, where their word and the tea originated.

Kaleiçi Kafe

We walked on Recip Peker Cd two blocks then turned right to Arik Cd 4 to find the non-descript Can Can Pide ve Kebab Salonu. We had a late lunch of two yummy mercimek çorbası (lentil) soups, one pide (type of pizza), and two teas.  I still think the pide in Toronto is better.  Even though we were only a couple of blocks away from Kaleiçi, there were no tourists.  We shared the table with the locals.  That meal cost TRY 17 for both of us!  In the tourist area the mains alone were TRY 20 ($10) each!!!  

Wedding Photo Shoot

I also became a wedding photographer today.  I was walking down the narrow alleys and came upon a shocking sight. A Turkish couple all dressed up and making dramatic poses.  They were so cute and really seemed to be enjoying their photo shoot.  

 

I even photographed the wedding photographer as she was wearing special outfit as well. 
 

Capturing the Photographer

After that we walked to the clock tower – wow, this is where the locals were hanging out.  Then we walked back via Uzun Çarşı Sokak.  We were nearly back – I think it was around Kaledibi Sokak – when I saw a sign for sahlep TRY 3.  As mentioned in the Topkapi Palace Paradise post, the aromatic sahlep drink is made from wild orchid root, milk, honey, cinnamon and vanilla – and it is yummy!  I could have had a second cup.

Because that very late lunch was filling, we never did have supper. We went back to the pension but sat downstairs in the Ottoman lobby where there are divans and sofas and had tea (just ask the desk) and talked with the concierge.  

Hidirlik Tower

Kaleiçi Day 2



It was a glorious sunny day.  We went to the Ancient Roman Hıdırlık Tower at the end of Hespaçi Sokak.  








Taurus Mountains

We discovered the extensive Karaalioglu Park along the sea with fabulous views of the snow-capped Taurus Mountains across the bay.  So that’s why people like it here.


 

Our Oldest Breakfast Table

We returned to our hotel for breakfast in the Ottoman foyer.  In summer everyone goes outside to eat in the inner courtyard.  In the mornings we talked with the owner, Metin, and especially his very helpful nephew who was working the reception at the hotel.  Breakfast consisted of fresh fruit, cereal, cooked meats and cheese, and very good coffee.  




The Youngest Tourist

 

 

At breakfast, we met the cutest Dutch girl who had a gorgeous smile, and loves football (soccer). Unfortunately, she didn't talk very much – but you cannot have everything. She is only 14 months old!!!   





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Antalya Archaeology Museum

Antalya

Is it worth going to Antalya?  The top five reasons for coming to Antalya are:

1. Antalya Archaeological Museum – one the best in Turkey
2. Old City of Kaleiçi – yes it's touristy but quaint
3. Base for surrounding ancient sites such as Aspendos, Termessos, and Perge
4. Base for Köprülü Kanyon day trip
5. Food

Roman Sculpture Alley

Each of these bolded places will get its own post.  Some travel forums are very negative about visiting Antalya.  Yes it's a large city but so are Istanbul and Bursa.  If your goal is to mainly spend time on a beach then for sure stay at smaller towns discussed in pervious posts, like Dalyan, Demre, and Kaş.

 

Digging Archaeology at the
Antalya Museum

As we are driving in from the west side, we made an executive decision to go straight to the Antalya Archaeological Museum rather than our hotel in the old city, Kaleiçi.  There was ample parking and we spent at least two hours there.  If you dig archaeology you could easily spend more time. The museum is located at the curve in Konyaalti Caddesi that heads to/from Kaleiçi.
 

Silk Routes

Gorgeous Blue Bowl and Flasks

The reason for the wealth of objects in Turkey is that Istanbul and Ephesus served as the terminus of the Silk Trade Routes.  There was not a single Silk Road, a term invented by German geographer Ferdinand von Richthofen in the 19^th century.  There were many routes, including some sea routes (see the Silk Routes Map).


Glass, one of the West's Inventions

There is another misconception to clear up.  While we know many inventions, art, silk, paper, gunpowder and other goods came from the East; there were many inventions and goods from the West that went to Asia.  In the hall of small objects look at the amazing glass with ornate colour patterns.  Glass is one of these inventions. It is associated to Ancient Rome but the first true glass was invented in what is now Syria.  Cotton, cosmetics, chairs, peaches and grapes are some of the western exports. 



Romanesque Niches

The museum is very well laid out with lots of space between artefacts. I loved the Romanesque niches that were used to highlight each statue. This also gives a feel for the way these statues would have been displayed in Ancient Roman times. The lighting was either very atmospheric or purposely too dark for good photography.  Their policy of no flash is ridiculous as I seriously question whether flash can affect stone.  Let's get real.  

 

Resting God

The more likely reason is to prevent photographers from getting good photos rather than buying the museums' books. After learning how to let my new digital camera adjust the ISO sensitivity (formerly film speed) automatically, I was able to capture photos without the use of a tripod. However the photos may be grainy.  Some of the best photographic subjects are the Ancient Roman sculptures.  The main hall to visit is filled with statues of gods excavated from nearby Perge, 11 km east of Antalya.  The next in importance is the hall of Emperors and their wives.



Emperor Trajan

As you look upon an ageing Trajan dressed in military cuirass, remember that he was the one who fought many wars to expand Rome to its greatest territory. Also remember he was responsible for starting the Temple of Trajan in Pergamon (discussed in an earlier post), which was finished by his successor, Hadrian.

  



Emperor Hadrian

Admire the statue of Hadrian from the North Nymphaeum at Perge.  Hadrian stopped expanding the Roman Empire as he preferred to promote the arts and architecture. As you take in his portrait, remember that he was also an architect and sponsored the construction of the greatest building and dome of ancient history – the Pantheon.

   



Heads or Tails?

A side trip upstairs brings you to the numismatics section. Lydia (located just north of Lycia) invented the first coins in the world.  Alexander the Great spread the idea around the world while promoting his image on the "heads" side.   Some things have not changed.  Royalty or presidents still adorn the "heads" side.

 

Coming back to the ground floor, is probably the best statue in the museum – especially because it used to be in two pieces.  The “Weary Herakles” is a Roman marble statue that was excavated in 1980 in Perge, Turkey.  However, the top half was removed during excavations and sold to the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston.   After much negotiation, Hercules finally returned to Turkey in 2011 and the top portion was reattached to the torso.



Hercules 1 Lion 0

Herakles or Hercules was the god of heroes, sports, athletes, health, fertility, and divine protector of mankind.  One look at this statue and you know he was a paragon of masculinity, strength, and sexual prowess. Heracles used his wits on several occasions when his strength did not suffice.

   

The skin of the conquered Nemean Lion is shown draped on his left side.  This was a mythological lion with golden fur that was impervious to attack and claws that could cut through any armour.  It could not be killed with human weapons.  The lion was strangled to death by Heracles.
 

I love the chiaroscuro lighting with Heracles appearing out of the dark shadows in a corner niche.  It is truly the piece de resistance of the museum, which really has a knack for presentation and lighting.

 

Next came a hall filled with Sarcophagi, lots and lots of them.  Normally, this where your brain shuts down because you don't know what to look for or appreciate.  It's also so much easier to get "museumed out" when you're hungry – we still hadn't had lunch. Sometimes our days feel like we are on a guided tour but without the meals and we have to do the driving.



Riot of Figurines

We did notice the sculptured bas reliefs along the sides of the coffins.  However one huge coffin was a work of art, the Sarcophagus of Aurelia Botain Demetria, from 2nd Century Perge.  Soon after several art students sat down and drew pictures of it. So we had made a good choice.



Blue Woman

As we completed the tour, we were impressed by the clothing and artefacts in the ethnography hall.  What gorgeous blue dyes were used in the clothing.  It's hard to believe that the outfits are in such good condition.  





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Pergamon Acropolis

What to See in Pergamon

The acropolis of the ancient Greek and Roman city of Pergamon is a small but dramatic site worth seeing on the way to the Turquoise Coast.  Many significant sculptures and architecture from Pergamon are found in museums in Turkey and Europe. 

   

Day 7: We crawled through the heavy traffic of Turkey's fourth largest city, Bursa.  Once outside the city limits, we enjoyed the easy driving on the excellent six-lane divided highway D200.
   

Along secondary road 10-51

Alas all good things have to end.  Using our Google Map to select the route, we exited the D265 and turned south on the secondary road 10-51 to Savaştepe.  Wow, we saw our first (and only) pothole but also there were very few cars.  

 

The scenery dramatically improved with rolling green hills dotted with trees.  Oh and it was our first sunny day of the trip.  But there was no place to stop to take pictures – it was a two lane road with no shoulders.  We rejoined major highway D240 near Soma, where a recent disaster took the lives of 301 coal miners.  

Note: click on any image to see a slide show of the photos in a larger size. 



Pergamon  Acropolis

 

Ancient Pergamon above Sunset-lit Bergama

Finally, 270.3 km and 4.5 hours later, we saw a rocky outcropping with ruins from the highway.  We had arrived at Bergama so we drove the very steep, narrow road to the top of ancient Greek city of Pergamon.  There is a very small parking area with only one other car (off-season) but those without cars can take the teleferik from the city to the same parking lot.  

 

Time Travel 2000 Years Back to the Pergamon Acropolis

It was exhilarating that when we arrived at our first ancient ruin the sun had blessed us.  But best of all, the setting was special.   I climbed just a little up the hill to get photos of the gorgeous island-studded lake formed by a dam.  I hope there is something in the charter of the UNESCO that guarantees no development within eyesight of a World Heritage Site (WHS).  This is the way things should stay.   It felt like we had been transported back to ancient times.  Well, at least until we turned around and skirted past the small tourist shop area.  

Walking up a steep new wood ramp, there was only one tour group in the central piazza and soon after they had left.  This square with views of Bergama is actually a platform supported by arches that provides a level surface for the huge Temple for Trajan and Hadrian.  

Alone in the ruins of the temple, I took my photos right way.   One of the signs shows an artist’s drawing of what the complex looked like. It must have been amazing. The three standing columns and the pediment are evocative.  

 

What is the Significance of Trajan and Hadrian?

Why is there a temple to Trajan and Hadrian?  The Romans followed the custom of deifying an emperor. This came from Alexander the Great, who in turn, adopted it from eastern cultures.  This is another example of how the East has been influencing the West and vice-versa for many centuries.

 

Trajan (ruled 98-117 CE) achieved the peak territory in 117 CE.  The Roman Empire stretched from Morocco to Mesopotamia, from Britain to Armenia.  N.B.: it is not the largest empire in world history.

 

Pergamon Temple of Trajan

  



Stand in Awe inside the Temple of Trajan

While Pergamon was originally an ancient Greek city, it rose to importance under Hadrian (ruled 117-138 CE).  His reign was the most peaceful as he stopped any further military conquests. Peacetime led to increased spending on culture and Hadrian loved the Greek culture.   The Corinthian peristyle (columns all around the temple) shows the influence of Greek architecture.  The curved retaining wall viewed from the back is the base for the massive peristyle.  

 

Hadrian had a keen interest in architecture and sponsored many monuments – such as the Pantheon (Rome), the largest dome built for a 1000 years until the Astrodome stadium!  The purpose of Pergamon was to tie Asia Minor to the Roman Empire and show off the greatness of Rome.  

 

Theatre of Pergamon

Precipitous Pergamon Theatre - Acrophobics Avoid!! 

The most spectacular ruin was the vertiginous theatre directly below the temple square.  While I am not scared of heights, looking down the 10,000 seats is breathtaking.  Do not drink and attend theatre!  It was constructed in the 3rd century BC. The Greeks used their expertise in physics to produce the highest quality sound in theatres. Our word “acoustics” comes from a Greek word akoustikos, meaning “for hearing”.
  

It's a long way down from the Acropolis Trail

It is worthwhile to walk around the whole acropolis (it’s not that large) and I only met three people until I came back to the central square. By car we drove out of town to see the theatre from below. Further down the road we saw the remains of the aqueduct that can be seen from the back of the acropolis walk.  
 

What is the Significance of Pergamon?

The most famous monument of this site – the Pergamon Altar – can only be viewed at the Pergamon Museum in Berlin.  Its monumental stairs stood at the entrance to the acropolis.  Pergamon also had the original sculpture of the Laocoön, the most iconic sculpture of the agony of death.  An Ancient Roman copy in the Vatican Museums had a strong influence on Michelangelo, Raphaello, and many other artists – which in turn affected the art of the Renaissance and Baroque eras.  So this is an example for how one culture, one era has affected other cultures, other eras.  
 

Bergama

One of Our Favourite Encounters

We were cold (it started raining) so we had mercimek çorbası (lentil soup) at a small place on south side of Kinik Caddesi recommended by our hotel.  It was excellent and only TRY 4.  Adding the lemon provided made it even better.  It is delicious but very different from the Indian or Nepali lentil dish, dal.

Tonight's pièce de résistance was talking to the owner of the carpet business for at least a couple of hours.  He buys old carpets from remote villages and reuses them to make new items for sale.

He is totally fluent in English because he lived in New York City from 14 to 19 years old.  He worked in his sponsor's carpet shop.  He had lots of personal stories about his New York friends, the differences between Turkish and American cultures, and other events during his life.

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