West Turkey Itinerary

Terra Encounters Turkey Trip – 31 days

Göreme

Overall, this was one of our best-ever vacation trips.  This is because of the friendliness and hospitality of the people and not just the sights.  Our trip summary gives the best places to go, in our opinion, for a 31-day trip.  We have also attached stars to each destination to give a sense of what is most worthwhile seeing.  Our ratings take into account the many places we have seen around the world.

  

Because this trip report is very long, we have split our itinerary into two segments so that those of you who only have a couple of weeks can use one or the other.  Do not ask which is better: all the places we visited in Turkey were good choices.  But first, we will cover some of the logistics. 

Accommodation

Every traveller goes to hotels at the standard of living s/he desires and the budget they have.  We prefer places that provide good value.  We did not go to the cheapest places like when we backpacked around the world.  We chose to stay in family-run or small hotels (sometimes called pansiyon in Turkish).  In the off-season, we could go to places that in high season would be much more costly.  Istanbul and Bursa are more expensive: we averaged TRY 192/day in low season.  In the rest of the country, we averaged TRY 128/day for a double.

Travel Pace

Once you decide on your primary destination, you should assign at least three nights and preferably four to it.  In our case, we chose four nights in Istanbul and Göreme.  Then with the remaining days, you can determine the number of additional stopovers by using our rule of thumb of a minimum of two nights for each destination since at least half a day of that is required for travel.  Even though we had 31 days, there are always choices to be made.  Turkey is the size of Britain and France combined. 

Each place listed below is described in more detail along with photos in our posts on the Terra Encounters blog.  All underlined text below are hyperlinks that will take you directly to the most relevant post.  

For shorter trips, it is recommended that you focus on one geographic area reducing the number of places as well as travel time.  On the other hand, you may be able to add some of the other places we considered on our More Places page. 

Travel Mode

For this 3700 km trip, we rented a car.  Yes, that is very expensive, especially with the TRY 4.60/liter gas.  Some Aussie travellers had a neat idea.  They travelled between major destinations by public transport.  Then they rented a car to do side trips to national parks and more remote places.

West Turkey Itinerary

For a visual overview of the first part of our trip, see Itinerary Map 1.  

Istanbul **** 4 nights

Spent 8 nights in IST altogether: Yes, there is that much to see but on a shorter trip, you can spend less time here by reducing what you do. The following is what we saw in the first stay there. 
 

Sirkeci Mansion

AIRPORT: very inefficient, very long lineups to go through security and immigration.  Allow sufficient time.


HOTEL: Hotel Ilkay upgraded to Sirkeci Mansion **** great location, fabulous staff, like having personal travel advisors, unbelievable breakfasts.  Book directly to get free airport shuttle for a long (4 day) stay.

 

Live Like a Sultan

Topkapi Palace Paradise – definitely worth a day.  There is a separate ticket the Harem.  We would highly recommend it if you have the time.  Here you will see close up the beautiful Iznik tiles and carved wood decorations where the Sultan's family lived.  It is also useful to go there when everywhere else is so busy and then go to the jewel and weapon rooms (the most congested areas) at the end of the day.  

Hagia Sophia Dome-ination –

Dome of Dreams 

the most significant dome and building of the Byzantine era that influenced Ottoman and thus Islamic architecture

Istanbul Archaeology Museums – meet Alexander the Great, Iznik tiles, and other important artefacts that talk about the impact of Turkey on the world



St. Peter

Chora Church Mosaics – magnificent Byzantine gold mosaics

Süleymaniye Mosque Dome-ination – incredible domes of this Ottoman masterpiece

Spice Market – buy delicious Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi kahve (coffee), Turkish Delight, and hazelnuts

We did all the “museums” at one time because the weather was cold and dreary and we bought the Museum Card.  We do not recommend the card.  You are limited to five days, can only go to each museum once, and must visit all museums at one time.  Not many tourists want to spend all their time indoors.  Secondly, there is no discount if you only go to the top three places.  Any National Park card gives unlimited visits over a significant timeframe at a significant discount.
 

Bursa ** 2 nights

HOTEL: Hampton by Hilton very modern, business like, north of downtown, free parking, VG self-serve breakfast

Emerald Wonder

Green Mosque & Tomb *** – it is really Yeşil Türbe (Green Tomb)  opposite the mosque that blew us away and is the must-see with its unbelievable shades of green, so do not miss it!

Cumalikizik

Cumalikizik, Bursa – Ottoman Delight ** – the first is a small, old Ottoman village (do not expect incredible architecture like the wealthier Safranbolu but it was pleasant walk in the off-season when there were very few tourists) and the second is the old walled district of Bursa with nice views from the ramparts near the Türbe.

 

Acrophobics Avoid!

Bergama ** 1 night

HOTEL: Red Basilica very nice manager, E breakfast, good location

Pergamum Acropolis ** – loved the spectacular setting and the precipitous theatre

Selçuk *** 3 nights

HOTEL: Homeros Pension – great place, location, decor, and breakfast; can easily meet other travellers in dining/living room; we even ate supper here just for that reason

Famous building was a library

Ephesus *** – the top archaeological site of Turkey but overrun with tourists; spent all day here; actually is busiest from the opening until lunch then much less people the rest of the day

Şirince * – old Greek town famous for white-washed houses, wine, et al.; spent afternoon of our arrival day here
 

Ionic Columns are from Ionia

Priene – Connection to Architecture? *,
Miletus – What is a Vomitorium? *,
Didyma and the God Apollo – these ancient ruins are all close together but require a car or a tour; we spent all day and did not have enough time to visit Lake Bafu.

 



What's a Tetrapylon?

Afrodisias – Archaeology Aphrodisiac ***

If you have a car, you can visit nearby Afrodisias, on the way to Pamukkale.  However, it is very difficult to get to by dolmuş.  Rent a car or take a tour.  It is one of the nicest archaeological sites in Turkey with some actual buildings still standing or reconstructed!  Its’ fairly compact size gives a very good idea what an Ancient Roman city looked like.  Needs a half day.

Pamukkale – 2 nights

First day was Afrodisias and travel time; so we really had only one day here. 

HOTEL: Melrose House Hotel very warm owners, good conversations, E breakfasts and suppers

 

Where has all the water gone?

Pamukkale Terraces – notice no stars.  Only a few places in Turkey were disappointing.  The Pamukkale Terraces were very disheartening with hardly any water in the "thermal pools".  They are not worth the price of admission. 

Most of the water goes into pools that visitors can walk into.  I am sure this appeals to many tourists but it is not what a thermal area should look like.  If you want to see thermal areas go to Whakarewarewa (Rotorua), Orakei Korako (New Zealand) or Yellowstone National Park (USA). 

Theatre Stage

Hierapolis Ruins ** especially the theatre ***

However, Pamukkale admission also includes the Hierapolis Ruins, which were a pleasant surprise.  The theatre made the price of admission.

Dalyan ** 1 night

Lycian Tombs

Dalyan was one place that deserved more time – not for the laid-back town but for the places nearby.  This is a case where one day really is only a half day at your destination.  If it were beach weather, wouldn't you want to spend time swimming at one of the best beaches in Turkey? 

Iztuzu Beach ** –  Trip Advisor ranks it as one of the top 25 beaches in the world!

Kaunos Lycian Tombs *** –  spectacular, high up on a tall cliff.  But who are the Lycians?  Click the link to find the surprising answer. 
 

Kaş *** 2 nights

HOTEL: Hideaway Hotel was one of the best in TR; E breakfast with a terrace view, E coffee

On the way there: Ölüdeniz – overrated, narrow beach with the sea that is not as turquoise as in the over saturated photos in the tourist brochures

Soft Sand Patara

Patara *** – best beach we saw in Turkey, a world class beach with historically significant ruins – the site of the world's first parliament, whose constitution has influenced most democracies

Kaputaş Beach * – cute beach in a cliff-enclosed cove fringed with turquoise water; near to Kaş so probably dolmuş to get there

Off-season Kaş 

Old Kaş – small but enjoyable with overhanging balconies and plants

Kaş Market – every Friday, be sure to eat here the gözleme

View high up from park on road going down from main highway; Çukurbağ Peninsula; Old Roman Theatre

Kekova Kaarst

Day Trips: Kekova Sound *** spectacular karst scenery but need car so you can stop for views, else book a boat trip over sunken ruins

Could easily spend more time in Kaş, a great "vacation from the vacation" spot

Kiyi Hospitality

Çıralı 1 night

HOTEL: Kiyi Pension E owners, fantastic so meals, so welcoming

Çıralı itself could be skipped but we had a great stay on a farm B&B.  Beach is pebbly and overrated.

 

Turquoise Treasure

On the way to Çıralı:

 

Demre - Turquoise Coast Treasures for perhaps the most beautiful turquoise sea views **

 

 

Next Post: Spicy Istanbul
Last Post:  Kool Kadıköy

Kaş and Kekova

Kaş Delights

Spectacular Kekova Coast

Kaş is one of those towns that is made for relaxing.  In itself there are no spectacular sights but it is surrounded by plenty of outdoor delights. Kaş Karst-embedded Kekova coast takes your breath away.  We couldn't have picked a better vacation from the vacation. 

Kaş Market



Talk Time at the Kaş Market

On Friday we went to the Kaş market, a short walk from the Hideaway Hotel.  It was a great place for photography since people, many of them from the countryside, are dressed more traditionally – this is not Istanbul.  There were few tourists other than the British expats who live in Kaş. The market has many types of good for sale as well as food and spices.

Gözleme Time at Kaş Market

There are also food stalls with tiny tables and stools.  We had authentic gözleme. Göz means "compartment" and indeed this is a kind of crepe stuffed with cheese and/or spinach and various other fillings and cooked on a large pan.  The women come from villages and cook for Kaş literally!!  Definitely have the very reasonably priced gözleme here.

Is the Water Safe?




Was This Distinguished Man Posing?

Before going to Turkey, we heard and read so often that you cannot drink the water.  Water bottles were given for free in Istanbul.  Now it costs 2TL per bottle.  Have you eaten uncooked vegetables during your travels?  Brushed you teeth and toothbrush using the tap water?  Used ice in drinks?  If the water is bad, anything washed with that water would quickly make you sick!  Having travelled for three years in Asia we know from experience. 

 

 

Yummy Time at Kaş Market

We realized that we had been eating the raw veggies that are served with the kebabs, et al.  We never got sick.  It dawned on us that the water problem cannot be that bad.  Perhaps we have built up a better immune system. 

If the water is unsafe where you are going to travel or you just want to be sure then read about the steri-pen in the Drinking Water Tips page.  What a superb invention used by development agencies throughout the developing world! 

Kekova

   

Karst-embedded Kekova Coast

After lunch we drove past snowy coastal mountains to the side road to Kekova region (now a maritime park). We were stunned by the surprising surreal karst scenery of the Uçagiz (village) area. Unfortunately this is a narrow road with non-existent shoulders and heavy tour bus traffic though not too many cars.  So we looked for places to pull off the road and enjoy the views.  Even if they built some pullovers there would never be enough room.  There was a one km stretch that had the best views.

 

Near the Ancient Lycian Ruins of Kaleköy

We were told to go to the right by locals probably so we can but later we went the other way where the tour buses go and there was parking near some cafes and craft stores. All of these places were overpriced. However there are nice views of the coast. 
 

Cruise Time in Üçağız

We parked and walked along the harbour with lots of tour boats to view the underwater ancient Lycian ruins of Kaleköy - underwater due to an earthquake during the 2nd century.  It's located just past those jagged rocks in the middle of the water. Also note the many islands that were just to the right of the jagged rocks.  If you want to go on the boat cruise drive here in the morning or book the cruise from Kaş.

Çukurbağ Peninsula



Castle Time in Çukurbağ Peninsula

Towards dusk, we took a self-guided "tour" of the Çukurbağ Peninsula.  This is where wealthy expats and locals buy villas.  According to a real estate storefront, houses sell from GBP 300,000 to 700,000 – yes in British Pounds as a lot of Brits retire here.  The house I want to buy is the one with a turret in the photo -- your personal castle on the coast.

 

This is also the location of the most expensive hotels.  My sister Umet (code name) asked if we were staying at the Peninsula Gardens Hotel that she saw on the Internet.  The rooms start at EUR 1190!!  That's way beyond our league. 
 

Our Turkey Trip Planning page shows that it is possible to economize simply by going in the off-season.  Now that we have left Istanbul and Bursa (expensive cities), we paid on average $65 per night including breakfast.  From mid-May to mid-Sep prices can sometimes triple or quadruple. 

 

Ionia

Greek Theatre, Kaş with Kastellorizo

We woke up in the morning to beautiful views of Greece outside our window. Yes, I said Greece, as in the Greek Isles. This one is called Kastellorizo.  In other words the Ionian Islands synonymous with Ionic temples such as the ones in Priene, now Turkey, where Ionic Architecture originated.  Some of the most famous Greek Islands are just 6 to 18 km off the Turkish coast – Chios, Samos, Kos and Rhodos, better known to Anglos as Rhodes.  Rhodes was famous in ancient times as it held one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, the Colossus of Rhodes.  Take a look at the artist's drawing on that web page.  Its arm stretched out in welcome, its head held a crown of sun beams, and its purpose was to welcome maritime visitors.  Does that sound familiar?  This statue was used as the design for the Statue of Liberty.

Yes, you can easily go by ferry to any of the islands.  But we decided that the focus of this trip was Turkey.  If you have unlimited time or have limited the geographical distances you are travelling then a Greek side trip is definitely feasible. Keep in mind the rule of thumb described on the Itinerary Planning page. 

I went to the ancient theatre outside our window in Kaş (see picture above). The outer wall was visible in the picture of the view from our window.  This is all that is left of the Ancient Greek city of Antiphellos.

Last Post:  Old Kaş
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