West Turkey Itinerary

Terra Encounters Turkey Trip – 31 days

Göreme

Overall, this was one of our best-ever vacation trips.  This is because of the friendliness and hospitality of the people and not just the sights.  Our trip summary gives the best places to go, in our opinion, for a 31-day trip.  We have also attached stars to each destination to give a sense of what is most worthwhile seeing.  Our ratings take into account the many places we have seen around the world.

  

Because this trip report is very long, we have split our itinerary into two segments so that those of you who only have a couple of weeks can use one or the other.  Do not ask which is better: all the places we visited in Turkey were good choices.  But first, we will cover some of the logistics. 

Accommodation

Every traveller goes to hotels at the standard of living s/he desires and the budget they have.  We prefer places that provide good value.  We did not go to the cheapest places like when we backpacked around the world.  We chose to stay in family-run or small hotels (sometimes called pansiyon in Turkish).  In the off-season, we could go to places that in high season would be much more costly.  Istanbul and Bursa are more expensive: we averaged TRY 192/day in low season.  In the rest of the country, we averaged TRY 128/day for a double.

Travel Pace

Once you decide on your primary destination, you should assign at least three nights and preferably four to it.  In our case, we chose four nights in Istanbul and Göreme.  Then with the remaining days, you can determine the number of additional stopovers by using our rule of thumb of a minimum of two nights for each destination since at least half a day of that is required for travel.  Even though we had 31 days, there are always choices to be made.  Turkey is the size of Britain and France combined. 

Each place listed below is described in more detail along with photos in our posts on the Terra Encounters blog.  All underlined text below are hyperlinks that will take you directly to the most relevant post.  

For shorter trips, it is recommended that you focus on one geographic area reducing the number of places as well as travel time.  On the other hand, you may be able to add some of the other places we considered on our More Places page. 

Travel Mode

For this 3700 km trip, we rented a car.  Yes, that is very expensive, especially with the TRY 4.60/liter gas.  Some Aussie travellers had a neat idea.  They travelled between major destinations by public transport.  Then they rented a car to do side trips to national parks and more remote places.

West Turkey Itinerary

For a visual overview of the first part of our trip, see Itinerary Map 1.  

Istanbul **** 4 nights

Spent 8 nights in IST altogether: Yes, there is that much to see but on a shorter trip, you can spend less time here by reducing what you do. The following is what we saw in the first stay there. 
 

Sirkeci Mansion

AIRPORT: very inefficient, very long lineups to go through security and immigration.  Allow sufficient time.


HOTEL: Hotel Ilkay upgraded to Sirkeci Mansion **** great location, fabulous staff, like having personal travel advisors, unbelievable breakfasts.  Book directly to get free airport shuttle for a long (4 day) stay.

 

Live Like a Sultan

Topkapi Palace Paradise – definitely worth a day.  There is a separate ticket the Harem.  We would highly recommend it if you have the time.  Here you will see close up the beautiful Iznik tiles and carved wood decorations where the Sultan's family lived.  It is also useful to go there when everywhere else is so busy and then go to the jewel and weapon rooms (the most congested areas) at the end of the day.  

Hagia Sophia Dome-ination –

Dome of Dreams 

the most significant dome and building of the Byzantine era that influenced Ottoman and thus Islamic architecture

Istanbul Archaeology Museums – meet Alexander the Great, Iznik tiles, and other important artefacts that talk about the impact of Turkey on the world



St. Peter

Chora Church Mosaics – magnificent Byzantine gold mosaics

Süleymaniye Mosque Dome-ination – incredible domes of this Ottoman masterpiece

Spice Market – buy delicious Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi kahve (coffee), Turkish Delight, and hazelnuts

We did all the “museums” at one time because the weather was cold and dreary and we bought the Museum Card.  We do not recommend the card.  You are limited to five days, can only go to each museum once, and must visit all museums at one time.  Not many tourists want to spend all their time indoors.  Secondly, there is no discount if you only go to the top three places.  Any National Park card gives unlimited visits over a significant timeframe at a significant discount.
 

Bursa ** 2 nights

HOTEL: Hampton by Hilton very modern, business like, north of downtown, free parking, VG self-serve breakfast

Emerald Wonder

Green Mosque & Tomb *** – it is really Yeşil Türbe (Green Tomb)  opposite the mosque that blew us away and is the must-see with its unbelievable shades of green, so do not miss it!

Cumalikizik

Cumalikizik, Bursa – Ottoman Delight ** – the first is a small, old Ottoman village (do not expect incredible architecture like the wealthier Safranbolu but it was pleasant walk in the off-season when there were very few tourists) and the second is the old walled district of Bursa with nice views from the ramparts near the Türbe.

 

Acrophobics Avoid!

Bergama ** 1 night

HOTEL: Red Basilica very nice manager, E breakfast, good location

Pergamum Acropolis ** – loved the spectacular setting and the precipitous theatre

Selçuk *** 3 nights

HOTEL: Homeros Pension – great place, location, decor, and breakfast; can easily meet other travellers in dining/living room; we even ate supper here just for that reason

Famous building was a library

Ephesus *** – the top archaeological site of Turkey but overrun with tourists; spent all day here; actually is busiest from the opening until lunch then much less people the rest of the day

Şirince * – old Greek town famous for white-washed houses, wine, et al.; spent afternoon of our arrival day here
 

Ionic Columns are from Ionia

Priene – Connection to Architecture? *,
Miletus – What is a Vomitorium? *,
Didyma and the God Apollo – these ancient ruins are all close together but require a car or a tour; we spent all day and did not have enough time to visit Lake Bafu.

 



What's a Tetrapylon?

Afrodisias – Archaeology Aphrodisiac ***

If you have a car, you can visit nearby Afrodisias, on the way to Pamukkale.  However, it is very difficult to get to by dolmuş.  Rent a car or take a tour.  It is one of the nicest archaeological sites in Turkey with some actual buildings still standing or reconstructed!  Its’ fairly compact size gives a very good idea what an Ancient Roman city looked like.  Needs a half day.

Pamukkale – 2 nights

First day was Afrodisias and travel time; so we really had only one day here. 

HOTEL: Melrose House Hotel very warm owners, good conversations, E breakfasts and suppers

 

Where has all the water gone?

Pamukkale Terraces – notice no stars.  Only a few places in Turkey were disappointing.  The Pamukkale Terraces were very disheartening with hardly any water in the "thermal pools".  They are not worth the price of admission. 

Most of the water goes into pools that visitors can walk into.  I am sure this appeals to many tourists but it is not what a thermal area should look like.  If you want to see thermal areas go to Whakarewarewa (Rotorua), Orakei Korako (New Zealand) or Yellowstone National Park (USA). 

Theatre Stage

Hierapolis Ruins ** especially the theatre ***

However, Pamukkale admission also includes the Hierapolis Ruins, which were a pleasant surprise.  The theatre made the price of admission.

Dalyan ** 1 night

Lycian Tombs

Dalyan was one place that deserved more time – not for the laid-back town but for the places nearby.  This is a case where one day really is only a half day at your destination.  If it were beach weather, wouldn't you want to spend time swimming at one of the best beaches in Turkey? 

Iztuzu Beach ** –  Trip Advisor ranks it as one of the top 25 beaches in the world!

Kaunos Lycian Tombs *** –  spectacular, high up on a tall cliff.  But who are the Lycians?  Click the link to find the surprising answer. 
 

Kaş *** 2 nights

HOTEL: Hideaway Hotel was one of the best in TR; E breakfast with a terrace view, E coffee

On the way there: Ölüdeniz – overrated, narrow beach with the sea that is not as turquoise as in the over saturated photos in the tourist brochures

Soft Sand Patara

Patara *** – best beach we saw in Turkey, a world class beach with historically significant ruins – the site of the world's first parliament, whose constitution has influenced most democracies

Kaputaş Beach * – cute beach in a cliff-enclosed cove fringed with turquoise water; near to Kaş so probably dolmuş to get there

Off-season Kaş 

Old Kaş – small but enjoyable with overhanging balconies and plants

Kaş Market – every Friday, be sure to eat here the gözleme

View high up from park on road going down from main highway; Çukurbağ Peninsula; Old Roman Theatre

Kekova Kaarst

Day Trips: Kekova Sound *** spectacular karst scenery but need car so you can stop for views, else book a boat trip over sunken ruins

Could easily spend more time in Kaş, a great "vacation from the vacation" spot

Kiyi Hospitality

Çıralı 1 night

HOTEL: Kiyi Pension E owners, fantastic so meals, so welcoming

Çıralı itself could be skipped but we had a great stay on a farm B&B.  Beach is pebbly and overrated.

 

Turquoise Treasure

On the way to Çıralı:

 

Demre - Turquoise Coast Treasures for perhaps the most beautiful turquoise sea views **

 

 

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Pamukkale & Hierapolis

Pamukkale Terraces & Hierapolis Archaeology

Where has all the water gone?

 

 Come for the Terraces, stay for the Theatre! This is probably the best ancient theatre in any archaeology site in Turkey.  The Pamukkale thermal area is beneath the ancient city of Hierapolis and cascades down the terraces on a steep hillside. 

 

 

Boardwalk Empire

Day 12 brought us to the Pamukkale  terraces and hot springs, which have been used since the 2nd century BC as a spa and a healing centre.  The Hierapolis ruins and terraces are part of a "civilized park" with palm trees and park benches, boardwalks and birds. There were lots of silica patterns but no water!!! The Pamukkale Terraces would not be worth the price of admission! Moreover, it was another cloudy day and the temperature was less than 8°C.

Hierapolis Theatre

 

Thespian Theatrics

There was one massive building in all of Hierapolis (Greek for "holy city") and everyone was hiking up the hill to get into it. Enter through the gate and you will be blown away! This theatre not only had 15,000 semi-circular seats but a complete building as well.

 

The theatre was built in 129 CE for a visit by Emperor Hadrian. and finished in 206 CE.  

 

The Roman Scaenae

It had a three-storey scaenae adorned by a colonnade with statues and lintels with friezes. Scaenae, origin of our word scene, is the scene and costume changing rooms of the theatre. The "scene" at Ephesus and most other archaeology sites is missing. Priene has part of the scaenae building but Hierapolis shows what it should look like.  While this is an Ancient Rome archaeology site, the frieze below is written in Greek.  This area was formerly part of Greece and most people spoke Greek.  Alexander the Great had conquered all of Anatolia (Turkey) in 334 BC.  Ionia (the Turkish Coast including Priene, Miletus and Didyma) was part of Greece. 

This is one of the best and most complete theatres we have ever seen. And in our opinion, the best thing to see here. No, the theatre has not been standing here since 206 CE. It had collapsed during an earthquake in the 4th century CE but 90% of the stones were still lying there when archeologists during the last century decided to re-construct it.

 

The Greek Scene

Why cannot this be done at other sites, whether they are in Turkey or Italy? Because over the centuries, people carted away the blocks and columns to use in constructing later buildings. In Italy it was the Christians who tore down the temples (not the barbarians) because they despised them as pagan. The only temples that survived were those converted to churches.

 

Tourists in Hot Water

Coming down from the theatre the easy way (on the road), there were lots of ruins. At the main complex there are bathrooms, restaurants and a treed and pleasant picnic area overlooking an antique thermal pool where you can swim for an extra fee (TRY 15).

Hierapolis Plateia

Hierapolis Plateia

 

There were a couple other evocative places in Hierapolis. Still standing is the monumental triple arched Frontinus Gate, built by Julius Frontinus (84-86 CE), proconsul (governor) of Asia Minor.

It was made from travertine, a form of limestone deposited by mineral springs, especially hot springs. Travertine was used a lot in Ancient Rome as well. In fact, the largest building in the world made mainly from travertine was the Colosseum in Rome, which could hold about 75,000 unruly fanaticus (Latin for mad, enthusiastic, inspired by a god), the origin of our word "fanatics" − shortened to "fans" as we call them today. 

The old Roman Plateia is paved with large stones with roadside columns − roadside shops no longer included. Plateia is Greek for town square, like Plateia Syntagma in Athens.  A wide (14 m) road leads from Frontinus Gate to the other side of town.  The calcite from the hot springs had once covered the road − hot springs used to be everywhere. They had to remove it with some kind of pneumatic drill.

Pamukkale Terraces

 

The Real Pamukkale Terraces

On our way back we walked on a long boardwalk along thirsty thermal pools. Finally when we got to the middle of the national park, several large rectangular pools with hot water so the tourists could walk through them all the way down the slope to the town Even if you have been to a thermal area, this is unique. In thermal national parks, such as in New Zealand and United States, tourists are not allowed in or on the terraces at all. We were disappointed that the water was not the brilliant turquoise colour shown in the over-saturated photos on the internet. But perhaps this was also due to the lack of sun. If you were there let us know what you think.

 

The Unreal Pamukkale Terraces

Water in the Pamukkale Terraces gets diverted to different areas every day so perhaps you will have better luck. Personally, I would have preferred to see the beautiful, rimmed pools with a little bit of water. Finally at the very end - far beyond the end of the boardwalk - there were some pools of aquamarine water that I was able to capture with just a slight zoom (150mm). However, without the sun, the pictures didn't do it justice.  Of course, nothing beats Photoshop for adding light and saturation.   

Melrose Hotel

We really like small family-owned hotels, our choice throughout Turkey. 

 

Ummu of Melrose Hotel

The owners − Mehmet (husband) and Ummu (wife) − are very jovial and spoke English very well. The rooms of the Melrose Hotel were comfortable and clean.

 

Very few people actually sleep over in Pamukkale because most tourists are on tours and day trip from the big city, Denizli.  As a result, there isn't much in the way of restaurants, et al in Pamukkale. However, the restaurant in Melrose Hotel is one of the best in town. They knew what to buy and everything was homemade. The soup was so delicious! The kofte (meatballs) meal was delicious and included stuffed vine leaves with a tomato paste unlike like any other. The tomato paste was homemade with fresh tomatoes, sun-dried, boiled, then sun-dried again.

 

Cozy Dining Room at the Melrose Hotel

The dining room was a beautiful, cozy, enclosed den, which was essential for the cold weather we had. However, in better weather you can sit in the outside patio or by the pool.
 

Each breakfast was different and delicious. They had one of the best halvah of our trip. Another speciality of Turkey is tahini pekmez (tahini and grape molasses). This is a traditional Turkish condiment made with a blend of sesame seed paste and concentrated grape juice that's typically served for breakfast. Here is the recipe for this quintessential Turkish cuisine.  There were some filo-dough based dishes that were scrumptious as well.

 

The family ate in the same dining room and we struck up conversations with them and some of the other guests. Ummu had migrated to Germany to work when she was younger. She said she would have liked to go to university. But the hotel is a family business and very time consuming. They have just finished renovating another building to create another hotel closer to the Pamukkale Terraces. 

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